Epoxy with filler. It was applied during initial construction not as a fix.
At various points during the construction which is why it is inconsistant. Critical points such as plywood edges were epoxied the rest was just painted.
Everything in the bilges and hull structure was well epoxied. All plywood edges were epoxied. Most of the stuff painted white was just painted.
Pretty much all of it was epoxied. Mostly with Raka epoxy, although some of the early work was done with West System. Raka works just the same at about a quarter the price. THe gray paint is Interlux bilge paint over a couple layers of epoxy.
The maststeps are both heavily laminated ply copiously epoxied. They both have drain holes at the bottom to prevent standing water. There is a square tenon on the mast base.
The Frankenstein bolts (good term) are safety bolts to retain the masts in the event of a knockdown. Without them the only thing keeping the masts in is the partner wedges and gravity. The string just keeps it from rattling. I hate things which rattle on boats. The foam just helps keep the wedges from working loose.The mast is painted with epoxy paint. The partners are sealed with self-sealing silicone mast boot tape and that is covered with a sunbrella boot. They never leaked before, but that is, of course no guarantee.
About a year after we launched. I use ACP50 which theoretically doesn't lose potency in dry storage. There are about 4 coats on her now. The bottom coat is red and the rest are blue so if you see red it is time to repaint. By the way the sheathing of the hull is coated in West System copper filled epoxy which should give the little guys a severe toothache even if you never redo the bottom paint, but it won't do much to stop soft growth. The aluminum saildrive is needless to say isolated from the copper paint and painted with its own tin based paint.
Benford's partners are made of laminated plywood. I recall it is about 3 inches of solid ply. It joins to the knees and deckbeams. If you look closely the overhead is slightly lower around the mast which is due to the extra thickness.
It is sheathed in dynel, a polypropelene cloth, set in epoxy, as is the whole exterior of the hull. It is superior to glass as it has a modulus closer to that of wood so it doesn't delaminate as readily as glass. It also absorbs more impact that glass. The only disadvantage is that is isn't as stiff as glass so they don't build boats out of it, but for sheathing a wooden boat you don't need extra stiffness. It was used on the mast as you surmised to keep the anchor chain from chewing up the bury. It seemed a good trade off to create a possible problem while eliminating a definate one.
They are hollow for most of their length. The top foot or so and the bottom from a point about 4 feet above deck are solid. Actually the wall thickness tapers over a foot or so from hollow to totally solid so there isn't a stress concentration where the plug ends.
The boat is divided into four compartments which are watertight to well above the waterline. The forward most bulkhead aft of the deck anchor locker and forward of the foremast is completely sealed. The chain locker where the foremast resides is sealed except for the access hatch and the pipe which drains the compartment. The bulkhead aft of the engineroom is also completely sealed. This adds safety in the even of a collision as you are most likely to get holed in the bow and you probably wouldn't fare too badly unless the bulkheads failed. The bottom is three layers of MDO plywood well epoxied and dynel sheathed on the outside. The bilges are shallow, only 3 1/2 inches deep. I don't know what their capacity is, but we never let them overflow. The big problem we had was not being able to get the last dribble of water out.
The 2x4's are part of an assembly which came from yachtsaver which is why I stupidly installed it with out thinking about it. They just keep the bag in place and keep stuff in the bilge from abrading it. I don't recall how they are attached to the hull.
Decked over, but it is aluminum and the fabricator did a beautiful job.
We picked up some bamboo on one of our last days before we hauled and it seemed like a good thing to keep the boom in place. It was never a part of the regular rig.
I think I installed the engine controls before painting the cockpit and was too lazy to take them out again so I masked the whole panel.
The teak covers the bottom of the deadwood from the aft end of the lead to the end of the rudder extension. The black is a tar like sealant to keep baddies out of the wood-lead seam. The shoe is 10/4 teak and it covers the whole bottom of the keel from where the lead stops back. So if you go aground it is either on lead or teak.
They go about a foot into the lead where they are blind bolted through a mortise in the side of the lead.
It is a composite decking made of recycled pop bottles and fiberglass (similar to Trex deck). Benford would certainly not approve, but it is absolutely maintainence free and virtually indestructible. After a long hard passage we tied up at a marina and were too exhausted to put out fenders. The rubrail actually wore a flat spot in the pilings, but the rubrail showed no wear itself.
The hull and deck are both 2 layers of marine ply and they were laid up to interleave and then glassed over. The rubrail is sealed with urethane and screwed with bronze.
The bilge planking is MDO. I was originally going to build the entire hull from MDO, but it was too stiff for the sides so I used BS1088 Meranti ply for the rest. The two layers are epoxied together.
Every structural fastener which remains in the hull is bronze. I used a lot of steel fasteners in the glue-up, but they were all removed and epoxied over. Some of the epoxy is West System some is Raka, there is no particular advantage to West except that it is available in stores.
Zinc rich cold galvanizing compound. The rudder fittings were hot dipped, but they weren't well enough isolated from the copper paint so I put some sacrificial zinc on.
It is a fairing piece which was attached with 5200 so as not to put screws into the hull. It is fairly cosmetic and is not the actual saildrive seal.